In 1963, the champion steer and lamb raised by 4-H club members were auctioned at the West Virginia State Fair for a prestigious event. Following the fair, in September, a chapter of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs held an extraordinary dinner at The Greenbrier’s Kates Mountain Lodge. Appetizers included oysters and clams “opened to order,” Quiche Lorraine, beer-battered shrimp, succulent spare ribs and bratwurst and onions.
Entrées included a choice of round of beef or marinated club steak from the champion steer, the champion lamb, Chukar partridges with juniper berries, ham from 4-H club members, Maine lobster, and Allegheny trout. Side dishes included compote andalouse, Idaho baked potatoes, vine ripe tomatoes, and red and white slaw. The meal ended with cheeses and fruit. Cigarette smoking was not allowed so as to not dull the taste buds. From start to finish, the diners had their choice of the best Bordeaux wine or old German beer. All the while, the party was serenaded by The Greenbrier’s Populaires.
The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs dates back to the 13th century when France’s Louis IX ordered the establishment of several professional guilds, including the “Ayeurs” or goose roasters. In 1509, the guild’s interest was extended to include the preparation of other meats and poultry, including game, and it took the name “Rotisseurs.” The guild system was dissolved during the French Revolution, but the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs was revived in 1950 by a small group of gastronomes. Since then, it has grown to a national association with chapters in 75 countries.
The photo is from an undated post card that shows the original Kates Mountain Club lodge.
Sources: New York Public Library, Chaine des Rotisseurs.
